Helena - Three Forks - Big Timber

Let's make this snappy...



Leaving Helena...

• Early start and unispiring breakfast
• trip to help tom van man with the packed lunch shop
• quick jaunt up to the museum
• Charles M Russell
• Lewis & Clark (Surprise sur-bloody-prise)
• American Indains
• Big Grizzly
• Leaving too quick
• Back to hotel
• Out on the road
• Hot
• Hot
• Hot
• Big Train
• Stop at Winston 
• Information board - about Lewis & Clark
• Highway
• Lunch in the Sun & Wind
• Tailwind
• Long hot highways

• Hot
• Sunny
• Still changing views
• Screwy bike computer telling me I got up to 58 m.p.h.  - Doubt it!
• Old Town Road - small gravel section

• Three Forks
• Rest Day coming up
• Hocktails open for business
• Dinner in Iron Horse
• Few drinks & karaoke

Rest day in Three forks.  There was the possible option of visiting Yellowstone, I stayed at the motel and tended to my bike very thoroughly. Lent a hand with cleaning the van.  Got myself some cowboy clothes.  Had a burger and an early night.  Well rested and glad to have a chance to lie on a bed for a while without agenda in the evening.  And was even treated to some Buffalo meat as I was watching terrible Hollywood movies when Tom Van Man returned from dinner.

• Leaving Three Forks was a 7am start.  
• Gentle ride out of town on paved car free paths round the lakes and rivers.
• Bit of a mechanical issue at the back of the pack so regrouped in Manhattan.
• Quick call home as it's mothers day here
• Soon got onto the highway to Bozeman, 
• past the airport
• Pretty busy highway - not a great experience
• Was given the finger and a lot of horn by a particularly aggressive driver (not me individually)
• Bit of orientation into Bozeman
• Stop for brunch at co-op on the main street
• Bike shop visitation
• Nice town, some lovely buildings and friendly people, would be nicer to stay longer
• bit of riding on the Interstate in the day.  Not a favourite, but it does inspire safer cycling by all in the group, as you do have to keep your wits about you with not much space between you and the trucks.
• A few minor orientation issues
• some speedy rides into Livingstone with tailwinds and drafting
• Road Closed

Road Closed

• Lunch by the river
• Tommy D's catch of the day

• Rough Road
• Interstate
• Fast Ride into Super 8 Motel, Big Timber
• 97 miles all up, in high heat and lots of sun and we've brushed it off like I would have a 25 mile ride a few months ago
• Today was helped significantly by: Ian Dury, DJ Shadow & Cut Chemist, Northen Soul Floorshakers, Aphex Twin and the Death Proof Soundtrack.
• Speaking of music why the flip don't I have the Easy Rider or Dazed & Confused Soundtracks?
• Also speaking of music, this is on a little sound system on my handlebar bag which I think is really quite brilliant, thank goodness I have my ipod.. 

Montana

Wow

With a start like dropping in from Lolo Pass, a night in Lolo Hot Springs, into Missoula to discover another brilliant city with great hospitality and plenty of endless highways and breathtaking vistas.

Years ago on the Scope Grand Canyon Bike Away 2000 one of the bike guides was a girl called Jen.  In the journal I had for that which most participants and organisers signed she said something along the lines of having to bike Montana, land of the big sky.  It's always been a vague ambition of sorts, but not that I ever particularly expected to get here.  So because of that it's been one of many things that I had certain visions and hopes for before I came, I've been blown away really in so many ways.  And as much oif the saddle chat and other chats go, we are so lucky to be seeing it by bike, I couldn't think of a better way

I've mentioned the ride into Missoula, of which the highlight was probably a 7 or so mile stretch at a decent pace galloping past farm houses and ranches.  I had a grand old time in Missoula and was glad to have had the extra day.  There's always more that you could do, but I saw a few of the streets and chatted with a fair few locals, as well as getting to know some of the co-riders a little better.

The group dynamic and organisation is still in the 'forming' stages, with a little storming.  But leaving Missoula pretty late after a rest day we were all riding well together  and at least from my perception, spirits were high.    We were all riding close and I don't recall any navigational errors or stutters   At one point we were passing a school in Bonner, I was trying to get a picture of the flecking shadows we were riding through, but these of course also disguised any obstacles, which Tom in front of me went over and I rear ended him one handed, we were lucky to maintain balance and for me to not take out half of the group.  It unsettled me a little, and reminded me not to get too relaxed into my confident riding. 



A little further down the way There was a nice straight section and I tried to bomb ahead so I could get some good shots of the group riding by.  However I didn't really give myself enough space, but managed to get the camera outta my handlebar bag and snap off a few reasonable snaps.

 

So after this I was catching up to the group and my lungs were smarting from that bout of exertion.  I was happy for the lunch stop at around 25 miles.  We eat well out of the side of the van, and though on the side of the road, the views on the other side are really something.  The sun was really blazing, and there was a fair amount of banter.

I think my flickr stream speaks for the constant beauty of the surroundings.  It is just incessantly breathtaking.  The afternoon ride was very pleasant, the group spread out a little but was navigationally easy and everyone was at least paired up.  I rode with Grant for a bit into Ovando and there were plenty of opportunities for more pictures.  Ovando is great.  Little old town with a population of about 60.  We pretty much had the run of the place and a few of us sat outside the Stray Bullet supping on beers and soaking it all up.  Colleen was imparting local knowledge as a 5th generation resident   Apparently the town is very familiar with cycling tourists as part of the 'ride the divide' race and mountain biking route.





Other highlights in Ovando include: 

• the western style porch,  
• escaping dinner for long enough to watch the sun set over the mountains, 
• a Mad Max II character with a painted souped up car that played cock-a-doodle-do sounds, 
• photo shoots and more banter.   
• Oh and to top it off a campfire under the stars.  I was left to tend the fire as it went down (which was only fair as it had been me that started it and kept it stoked) and I was very happy indeed with the fire and the empty town and the Montana night sky and a little reflection.

This morning I decided to keep a little more thoughtful and silent, try and avoid uneccessary chit chat too much, which led to me being quite solitary.  I imagined myslef a bit as the man with no name rounding up my herd of cyclists.  Dressed all in black, my helmet my cowboy hat, my SPD cleats my spurs, my steed my steed and a banana my cigar.  Flot the first 20 miles I stuck at the back making sure no man was left behind, taking in the scenery and filling my lungs with that clean air as much as possible.  After 20 miles I asked permission of the nearest rider to put the hammer down,  The designated rest stop/muster pint was in Lincoln at 27 miles.  I stomped the first mile, then eased off a bit and back on, and off and on.  Speeding into the town was a great feeling, it's nice to really shred yourself once in a while.  Though it left me a little wrecked for the next section of riding.  I had found myself quite breathless all day for relatively little input (apart from that heavy input where breathlessness would be expected).  Maybe it's all the breathtaking scenery, though to me it feels more likely mild effects of slightly higher than usual altitude.

More scenery, then the hill, one of our highest passes at 6131ft.  I was quite behind at the start, but started to feel stronger as I climbed the hill.  I was hot hard work with the odd thunder clap threatening a downpour.  I was happy for the rest stop at the top where we seemed to remain within a tiny bubble of good weather.  As we finished lunch and posed for a picture the weather finally broke after nearly two weeks.  We suited up and headed down hill towards Helena.  




I kept to the back, thinking my weight and propensity for down hills would mean I end up around the middle.  As I set off I realised my speedo wires had come undone again (this is my bike computer, not swimming gear)  which was a bummer as I wouldn't find out my top speed.  It was a fun one, wind and rain and long bends to ride around.  A mile or two after the worst of the hill Nic had sustained a puncture so I stayed back to ensure no man was left behind.  He's clearly strong enough to get back up with the pack without too much effort, but I'm pretty strict on this whole not leaving team members in the middle of nowhere.  So by the time we were on our way we were a way at the back of the pack.  So we had a bit of fun trying to get as much speed up as possible, even if we both felt a little weary.  Drafting comes in handy at time like this, even if the person you're drafting off as neglected to fit fenders (or mud-guards, depending on your preferred vernacular), and though not the safest method, using the van to ease the ride is also very fun.  At Canuon Creek Rob, Bron and Tom were waiting back having a coffee.  SO we collected ourselves together and headed across more prarie than mountain land into fierce headwinds and dramatic skies. 

Last bit through town was a little uninspiring, more american sprawl, and finishing at a generic motel... I don't mean to sound ungrateful for a place to rest my head.  But I find it strange that after a day where I had designed to be mindful of my surroundings and activity, not crap on or bullshit too much and try and appreciate it all I felt quite creative and uplifted and inspired.  But many of the more insightful parts of this were all lost once I got into the room and logged on to upload pictures and write this burble of memories.  Hopefully on my rest day there will be a little deeper reflection rather than just recounting bit by bit occurrences which though significant to me now, and good to jog those memories in the future they are little more than anecdotal and the crapping on I was trying to avoid all day.  There is some significant work to do in the next few weeks and a need for focus and a sense of purpose.

Oh and no man left behind, unless he's popped back to his room to grab a pen and paper and tidy up when the taxi's arrive to take us into town!!!  Though a stroll and solo pulled pork in Millers Crossing are probably good for the solitary theme of the day.  And 'solo pulled pork' is not a euphemism, it's a sandwich eaten alone in a bar... don't even go down that route!

Missoula and stuff

OK.

Again I am tired and it's late and I'm only really writing this for my future self so why am I going to try and write 1000 words.  Why not look at all the pictures on flickr?

OH because it just crashed and I need some sleep.  Bugger.. after all that work.


OK it seems to be working again.

• Missoula huh?
• Nice town
• city?
• amazing hospitality
• beers
• sunshine
• college town
• bicycle infrastructure
• Porch
• merf mirth
• porches and suburbs
• red bird
• old time pictures
• sense of history
• 3-piece band in bar
• Mr Van Man, send me a dream
• Dad's Army shenanigans
• Wher to go next?
• Top hat & Taxi
• Tequila and beer
• Rhinosorous bar
• Missoula Club
• Taxi
• Adventure Cyclists Association
• Feels like I've come home
• Sunny
• Beers in bars
• Postcards & Phonecalls
• Sunny
• Relaxed
• Coffee & Chats
• Sunny
• Cycling & Sunshine
• Sunny

Did I mention the weather is unusually nice for this time of year?

• New gloves
• new rear light
• no new hat or glasses
• Burger & Beer
• Film crews
• history in the bar
• Burger & Beers for $10.50

Lowell to Lolo Springs and Beyond

Rest day: Did what it says on the tin, up early for breakfast but just chilling all day, a little reading... finally managed to finish Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance, which is very appropriate for our little jaunt.

• watching bike cleaning
• watching hummingbirds
• watching the river
• watching the road

Essentially apart from the 100 metre walk to the phone box I barely moved all day untill dinner time, where I was presented with my second cake, which was nice.  Didn't even clean my bike as it was in reasonable condion form Walla Walla.

The ride to Lolo Hot Springs was going to be quite long so there was an early set off on Sunday morning.  I've lost my glassess and gloves somewhere along the way, but hey ho!  The weatehr is perfect again, with slight headinds along the way.  We were following the Lochsa River upstream, so uphill.  Again.

• Chilling at the back mostly, trying to take the wind on some of the tougher parts.
• Rafters coming back down the river
• The traffic was generally quite light and no big  big trucks, just big trucks.

Eventually we vered off form the river, and all knew that there was a final climb up to Lolo pass.  Was probably the most challenging riding so far.  But the views on the way up were truly stunning.  Was just a matter of keeping on spinning all the way really.  Lots of snow melt and a few more vehicles, bust still glorious sunshine.

Up at the Pass pelotom was taking a shower in the snowmelt then rolling around in snow.. bit excessive but good to see him invigorated

After another photocall and bit of rest there was an awesome downhill to Lolo Springs resort.  put some tunes on and bombed it down.

The lodge at Lolo hot springs was great, tons of room and lovely refreshing hot springs to soothe the legs at the end of the day.  There was anice meal in good spirits and a really good feel of team accomplishment after a long hard day.

The short day into Missoula meant a couple of photo shoots and again being stunned at how quickly scenery changes.  A routre change means an extra day to spend in Missoula.  Which by the time the day has finished and I've explored a little more I should be able to summarise a little more.

34

It's my birthday... well it was.  

After the steak night on Thursday I rose in Kokotol Motel to find I am 34 years old.

A short day ahead and rest day following that so no rush to depart.  Very nice to have a chilled start around the motel.  Time to check up on pictures and postcards.  There were a few lovely renditions of Happy Birthday and a very nice birthday package from home that had been hidden away in my bag since i left with some bunting, some balloons, cards and a happy birthday musical chimy thing.  

I don't think we left the motel til gone 10.30, and with a balloon adorning my saddle I led P2P Back through Orofino back onto highway 12, with a close passing train on the way.  

Reasonable gentle pace.  Was nice to be leading and being made a fuss of with my baloon attached to my saddle.  As I am now writing this almost three days later it feels a lifetime ago, but we were following the clearwater river up still and and there were photo shoots... oh to be a media friendly group... one of the trials of this trip so far being that it's so consistently photogenic.  we're building up terabites a day of pictures, video and text.   I'm not adverse to following teh company line... sheeet I'm a company man through and through, but with faffing and photographing on highway 12, and group mentality not helping the safety of the group...I was also slightly frustrated at the stopping starting along the way..    Though it is noticable that after a week we ae riding better as agroup.  With the extra knowledge since then it's clearer to see that there are different groups forming which seems to all be quietly understood, and probably expected.  #

Anyway, photos shoots and forjing, storming, norming, performing aside we rode on down highway 12

We descended upon Kamiah Drank coffee and I had some huckleberry pie, which it turns ouyt is the state dish of idaho.  Thee was some mooching around in town and a final photo-shoot.

Leaving town

"car boot sale" 

Pharmacy

toothpaste & razors

Sister whose a doctor of doctory

Nez Peirce tribe

leaving town with kids waving and shouting

casino?

group riding

following the river

the wrong way

as in uphill

Lowell, Idaho: Population 24, no 23

Dinner with beers
Cake
Musical Cards (haha)

Taxidermy and pool

bunting and baloons

reunited with my ipod

Margaritas on the porch

G&T

WIld partying in the wilderness

bed by midnight

Lewiston to Orofino

Feeling a bit like a touring rock star now... whilst preparing for dinner tonight had to ask a number of times "what town are we in now?". The speed we're chasing through and different hotels, miles upon miles of highway is a bit disorientating. In a nice way become disoriented, but strange nevertheless.

Preparing to Leave Lewiston

Lovely bit of group riding

Leaving Lewiston I could feel fatigue in my thighs... sure they're strong and all, but also really quite tired.  We headed out over snake river and back on highway 12.  Which has come to be referred to as "the A12" in a transatlantic conflation of road identifiers.  SO anyway we rode along the road.  Various members of the group had been given stark warnings about the safety of the route.   Stuff like "you'll never escape the marauding trucks" "those roads aint made for bikes" "you'll be lucky to get to the other side of town alive"  OK, quotations on those particular phrases can't be correctly attributed, but we had been warned to take caution.  Our trusty rubber ducky would follow the group while we kept as close to the shoulder as possible.  As we rode out of town this precaution seemed a little over the top, but after having been practising group riding the day before it seemed to come more naturally today, i tended to be at the front or the back after various stops and the ride generally seemed to be very smooth.  Yeah there was some traffic, but still nothing compared to the first days ride out to Astoria with Bob.

I 'took the wind' for a while after the highway crossed Clearwater River, which it then followed for some way.  We ended up having a blissfull stop by the river in a well maintained rest stop by the river.  After a bite to eat there was a little larking around in the (FFFFreezing water) and some more photo opportunities and after a considerable rest a leisurely ride into town.  Orofino seemed a little unwelcoming on the way in, but everyone I'e met here has been lovely... it just seems they scowl from a distance.

Without going back and trying to check previous entries (which would be a problem with the internet dropping out every 2 minutes (Damn you P2P'ers and your bandwidth heavy activities) I'd imagine today would be the 6th in a row I've commented on how much the scenery changes... but today probably has been the most stunning... I think the Idaho licence plates calling it the scenic state stand up to scrutiny.  But the highway surface is not any fun on a bike... unless you like that kind of thing, which some of our riders clearly do.

Anyway, hopefully at some point I'll be able to upload the 'movie digest' things that my camera does as they're my new photographic obsession, along with teh fantastic lens lent to me for the trip (thanks El).

OK, off to sleep now, and I'm not sure if i mention it yet but it is my birthday tomorrow.  (yeah, come to think of it think I may have mentioned that) looking forward to a relatively short day riding.  By the way there have been a few conversations of how rides in excess of 50 miles are now just 'short days.  But then we're into the wilderness for a bit of celebration (for me at least) a bit of reflection on the research.  And more appreciation of how lucky we are to be here I guess.

Umatilla - Walla Walla - Lewiston

Well there's no such thing as a full digital detox at the moment, as by being just a day behind means a lot to catch up on.

In Lewiston now after two more days of excellent cycling and some urban exploration.  The ride from Umatilla was relatively short and painless, and two days on now it's already hard to recall the details and events of the day.  The tailwind stayed with us as we passed along the Columbia river, which due to dammage is now Umatilla lake.



In the morning we had pictures with our new sponsors banner.  As we rode off i realised that I'd left my helet in Tillicum, well always do it seems, ahem.  Had to turn back to collect it and then was chasing down the pack along the highway, pretty much until we came to a stop for roadworks at around 20 miles.  We regrouped alongside the trucks and other traffic before receiving an escort along the next mile or so.



The group kind of spread out along the rest of the route into Walla Walla.  I am still surprised by how rapidly the landscape keeps changing, for lakes and canyons to vineyards and rolling hills in the distance.  We are in wine country by this time, and there are plenty of opportunities  for indulgences along the way.






It was only a short day so we got into the Holiday Inn in Walla Walla by just after midday.  I took the opportunity to give my bike a bit of T.L.C. clean the chainset and check the fittings.  After washing me and my bike I headed into town to catch up with the gang.  They'd eaten so we had a chat and I went for a little wander.  Then caught up with Tom and we sat outside the restaurant people watching while I sampled some local wine.  I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Walla Walla.  It seems a very well turned out town, quite 'forward thinking' or a bit to the left, or hippyish, depending on your terminology.  I saw a sign which designated Walla Walla as 'the cycling capital of Washigton' though have no idea who designated it as such!

There are 3 colleges in the city so probably contributing to the feel of it.




I had a lovely chilled arvo mooching around going up and down the blocks, reading plaques and so on.  I got to Public House 124 a good hour before the arranged meeting time had a nice cocktail and chat with Will, a local mountainbiker and positive ball of energy who gave me a bit of a lowdown on the town.

After dinner there was an in depth briefing for the next day, which was a bit late for some.  It was a long day to Lewiston so an early start was required.  The plan was to ride pelotons as much as possible as practice for it it got hard. Heading out of town there was a little confusion about direction, but pretty soon we got into lush cartoon rolling hills.  There were a few photo opportunities and more gasping at scenery.
....

So now with 6 minutes battery remaining and having to head off soon we're back to list form.

• Leading the pack
• pictures
• coffee
• Camel?
• Trucks (no, really)
• scraggly peloton
• Riding together
• Packed lunch on teh roadside
• grain silos
• Pomeroy
• One final Hill
• Race into town
• Clarkston full of signs
• Lewiston old town
• Inn America
• Quesedia for dinner
• We're now in our 3rd state!

Pics and vid to follow if there's ever enough bandwidth to handle it!

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